Extreme Ocean Waves By Efim Pelinovsky And Christian Kharif
by Efim Pelinovsky /
2008 / English / PDF
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Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc.